I have had people ask for some more information about how I prepare
plastic figures for painting, and someone asked for some pointers on
simple conversions. So in this post, I'll go into more detail on
these topics, covering preparation up to priming the figures. I will
also do a simple conversion: doing a head swap to get a helmet, changing
the weapon to a mace, and adding a coif of mail.
The figure I picked is from the Airfix Robin Hood set that I think
will make a good cleric figure. The figure has an axe and no helmet.
I will convert the axe to a mace and swap the figure's head with one
of the other Robin Hood figures that has a helmet. I will add a coif
of mail draping under the helmet down to the shoulders. This will
also strengthen the attachment of the head to the figure.
I like to leave the figures on sprues as long as possible because it
makes it easier to handle them, especially if you are preparing a
batch of figures. I wait to remove them from the sprue until after
priming them if possible, although for mounted figures I might detach
and mount the riders on the mounts before priming.
These photos show the materials and tools I use for the preparation
and conversion steps. In the first photo, an Exacto hobby knive,
single edge razor knife and a pin vise (a tiny hand drill) are on the
bottom row. The glue shown here is a 20 minute 2 part epoxy glue,
which is good for large batches where you need more working time. I
will actually use a 5 minute epoxy glue for this single figure, but
its label is gone. Not pictured are electrical pliers that have a cutter that I used to cut the
piano wire.
Required materials
The second photo shows the tools and materials for the conversion.
The blue and yellow cylinders are the 2 parts of "green stuff", an
epoxy putty that is widely used with miniatures. I have a bunch of
carving and shaping tools for use with epoxy putty but for this post I
just used a toothpick and an Exacto knife. The green stuff is not
really required for simple projects, but if you do a lot of projects
with miniatures you will find the "green stuff" to be very useful.
Optional materials
Buying the putty in tubes is far more cost effective than buying the
overpriced little strips. Another problem with the strips is that
storing the blue and yellow parts together results in a crumbly strip
of cured green stuff that must be cut away, wasting some of the putty.
You can also buy a variety of 2 part epoxy putties at the hardware
store. I have tried several over the years, and many of them have
their uses.
Here are the steps for the preparation of the figure:
- Wash figures with dish soap
- Remove flash
- Convert/ assemble figures as needed
- Coat figures with white glue (only required for soft flexible figures)
- Prime the figures
The first step is to use dish soap to wash the figures. I use an old
toothbrush for this. Then go over the figures with a sharp knife and
cut off as much flash as possible. This is difficult with the Airfix
figures which are very soft and flexible and are sometimes cast with a
lot of flash. Just remember these are dirt cheap if you get
irritated.
The figure had a sword, so I carefully scraped the sword off. I used
a knife and cut off the heads. I use the pin vise to drill a hole
vertically through the head, down into the torso of the figure. I cut
a short length of piano wire and pushed it into the head and then
pushed the head onto the wire. This will give us good strength as
well as let us experiment with rotating the head and bending the neck.
In order to achieve a good bond between parts, you either need a large
flat surface for gluing, or as in this case, you need to pin the parts
together. I mixed up a very small batch of the 5 minute epoxy and
applied it with a toothpick. Be careful not to get big globs on the
figure. Glue the bottom part of the wire into the neck and torso of
the model, then put some glue on the top of the wire and on the bottom
of the head, being careful not to make a big blob.
Pinning the new head on the figure
Next I worked on the chainmail coif. I shaped the coif and then after
it started to cure, I used the toothpick point to rough up the putty
and suggest mail. The putty takes a long time to cure, and after it
stiffens there is a stage where it is hard to move it around but the
surface remains malleable. That is when I worked on the texture. I
did it in two steps because it is easier to work on small volumes at a
time. I worked on the part of the coif hanging down from the helmet,
and after that set up I added the part that goes round the front of
the neck.
Progress on the mail coif
For the mace, I shaped a simple mace head from a small amount of
putty. I built up the mace head in two steps, the first giving a
foundation and then I finished the shape. It was difficult to carve
and shape because of the flexibility of the plastic so the mace head
was very simple.
If you don't have green stuff, you could use a bit of epoxy glue and
build up the neck. Let it cure until it no longer flows and then push
it into place. I sometimes use the epoxy as a fillter, but it is
harder to control and not as nice to work with as putty. If you are
doing a lot of miniatures projects I urge you to get some green putty
and try your hand at something like this.
Now that the figure is assembled it is time to prepare it for
painting. A beat-up old brush is used to apply diluted white glue
prior to priming -- but this step is only required for rubbery,
flexible figures. Figures made of more modern plastics do not need
this step. I pour some glue out on the tile I use for a pallet and
get the brush very wet. I do this in two coats. Use water from a jar
to keep the white glue from being too thick. If you are not careful
you might get a blob of glue, so I dry the brush and remove excess.
After the first coat dries, give it a second thin coat. Make sure
you wash out the brush after applying glue with it.
After the white glue dries, I prime the figures with slightly thinned
acrylic gesso. Again use two thin coats instead of a thick coat. After
the second coat I might touch up thin spots, but three coats do not seem
to be necessary.
The prepared figure, the head donor, unmodified figures (and Friar Tuck looking rather portly)
The flexibility of the plastic makes it hard to work on thin parts,
but thicker pieces are easier to carve. The more modern plastics used
in Zvezda etc. are very easy to carve and shape. The lack of strength
of thin parts is another problem since it is not possible to form a
strong joint with a small, flexible region. The head swap and mail
coif parts of this project were very easy, and use a similar technique
to working on a metal figure. The mace was more frustrating due to
the flexibility of the plastic shaft, and the weakness of the hand.
If this had been a metal figure, I probably would have formed a mace
using a sewing pin or a piece of music wire and epoxied it into the
hand and it would have been easy to form a more intricate mace head.
But the plastic hand is so small and flexible that I did not think I
could form a strong joint and used the existing axe shaft instead.
In my opinion, the low cost and easy availability of these figures
more than outweigh the difficulty of working with plastic. Online or
at the hobby shop, less than $10 US will get you 40 of the Robin Hood
figures. The nicer Zvezda figures are a little more expensive but are
still an outstanding value compared to metal figures.